Blazers
Savile Row blazers
Savile Row blazers from Hackett London are the piece in which the entire constructive logic of the line is most concentrated: floating canvas, cloths from certified origins and a cut that works from the first wear and earns its keep with every subsequent one.
Construction and materials
Savile Row blazers are built on a floating canvas — the interlining is basted to the outer cloth rather than fused to it. The fabric moves with the body, the lapels develop their natural roll, and the jacket holds its shape through years of wear and dry cleaning. A floating canvas blazer outlasts a fused one by more than a decade of normal use — since Hackett London opened on the King's Road in 1983, this has been the construction principle of the tailoring line. Principal cloths are 100% virgin wool at 260–320 g/m² for seasonal references, certified-origin tweed for the autumn-winter editions, and wool-cashmere blends for the premium line.
Lapels are hand pick-stitched in the most carefully made references. The lining is in silk mix or high-density viscose. The hopsack buttons — made from natural horn — have a matte finish that distinguishes itself from a plastic button without you having to look for it.
Cuts available
Savile Row blazers are offered in Slim Fit with a marked waist and a close sleeve, in Regular Fit with a natural unpadded shoulder and a straight fall, and in the classic double-breasted cut. The notch lapel is the standard in the city references; the peak lapel appears in the more formal models and in the seasonal blazers. Shoulder padding in current references is minimal or absent: the shoulder follows the wearer's natural anatomy.
How to wear Savile Row blazers
Savile Row blazers are the piece with the widest range of action in the male wardrobe. Two starting points:
Grey wool Savile Row blazer, navy dress trouser, blue poplin shirt without a tie and brown leather Derby: the high-quality odd combination that earns its place in any professional or social context without a strict dress code — the right kind of quiet from a Monday morning to a Jermyn Street lunch.
Tobacco tweed Savile Row blazer over a fine grey merino, beige sergé chino and suede loafer: the weekend register where the cloths work without trying.
The combination principle for Savile Row blazers worn as separates is simple: the blazer cloth must be visibly different from the trouser cloth. Wool with chino, tweed with flannel, herringbone with sergé. When the two pieces are too similar, the read blurs with a badly matched suit.
Care
Savile Row blazers are dry clean only. Between cleans, air on a wide-shouldered hanger for at least an hour. A natural-bristle clothes brush deals with surface dust without damaging the cloth. Wool recovers its shape without intervention when given time and air — no need to press between dry cleans, except the lapels or collar if needed.
How do you tell a Savile Row blazer from a standard blazer?
Three inspection points. The canvas: fold the front of the blazer gently — cloth and canvas move together, without resistance or separation — that is a floating canvas. The lapels: a hand pick-stitch leaves a slightly irregular line of stitching a few millimetres from the edge; it is intentional. The lining: silk mix falls with more weight and lustre than polyester. None of these details announces itself; all are felt in the wearing.
How many Savile Row blazers does a wardrobe need?
Two covers the majority of contexts: one in smooth wool in navy or grey for the more formal and professional uses, and one in tweed or herringbone in brown or green for the more relaxed registers and the weekend. A third in a technical cloth or linen-wool blend extends the season toward summer. Rotating the first two also extends the life of each — wool needs at least one day's rest between wears.
Which size to choose for Savile Row blazers?
The shoulder is the non-negotiable parameter: the seam must fall exactly at the top of the shoulder joint, neither beyond nor short of it. In Slim Fit, when in doubt between two sizes, the smaller is generally correct — the cloth in a new wool blazer has a little more body than after the first wear, and it gives slightly with the initial use. Standard sleeve length is calculated for a height between 5'10" and 6'; above or below, the Regular Fit takes tailoring adjustments more cleanly.