Savile Row knitwear

Savile Row knitwear from Hackett London is the most direct argument for natural fibres: superfine merino, double-twisted cashmere and blends of both, worked in gauges and structures that demonstrate what a well-chosen fibre can do without any synthetic reinforcement.

Fibres and gauges

Savile Row knitwear works principally with superfine merino — fibre diameter below 18.5 microns — in the jumpers and cardigans intended for most frequent use, and with double-twisted cashmere in the premium references. The difference between the two is not only a matter of price: merino has greater resilience and recovers its shape better after washing; cashmere is softer to the touch and lighter at the same thickness, but requires more attentive care. Gauges run from fine — gauge 14 or 16, suited to wearing under a blazer — through to chunky — gauge 7 or 5, for the outer layer without anything on top.

Rib and seed-stitch structures in the heavier references add visual texture without unnecessary weight. Shoulder seams in the most carefully made models are chain-linked without a pressed flat seam: the shoulder falls more naturally and the garment does not mark under the blazer.

Forms and uses

Savile Row knitwear includes the crew-neck jumper, the V-neck jumper, the fully-buttoned cardigan, the cross-front cardigan, the roll-neck and the knitted polo shirt. The V-neck in a fine gauge is the most useful piece in the line for wearing under a blazer: the shirt collar remains visible, the tie sits naturally, and the fine gauge adds neither volume at the shoulder nor bulk beneath the sleeve. The crew-neck in mid-gauge is the most self-sufficient piece in the line — it works with a blazer over the top, with a coat, with dress trousers or with denim.

How to wear Savile Row knitwear

Savile Row knitwear sits naturally between formal and informal. Two starting points:

Fine merino V-neck in mid-grey under a navy wool blazer, white poplin shirt with the collar showing and dress trousers: the combination that removes the tie without degrading the overall register — correct from a Monday meeting through to a Friday supper.
Cashmere cardigan in camel over a blue Oxford shirt, beige chino and leather loafer in cognac: the weekend register where the quality of the cloth asserts itself without making a point of it.

Savile Row knitwear in neutral tones — navy, grey, camel, burgundy, bottle green — returns the most because it does not seek attention: it lets the whole composition speak and adds warmth without dominating it.

Care

Superfine merino can be machine washed on a wool programme at 30°C or hand washed; cashmere is hand wash or dry clean only. Never wring by twisting. Dry flat on a horizontal surface so the garment recovers its shape without elongating. Never hang knitwear — the weight of the garment deforms the shoulder within weeks. Fold and store in a drawer or on a shelf.

Which Savile Row knitwear works best under a blazer?

The V-neck in gauge 14 or 16. It leaves the shirt collar and tie visible if worn, or the open collar if not; the fine gauge adds no volume to the shoulders or sleeves and does not alter the fall of the blazer. The roll-neck also works under a blazer if the lapel gives enough clearance — though it can prove uncomfortable with a tie.

How long does Savile Row knitwear last?

With correct care, a superfine merino jumper from the Savile Row line lasts eight to twelve years in active use. Cashmere has a similar lifespan if stored correctly with lavender or cedarwood to protect it from dust and insects. The key is not over-washing: wool and cashmere clean themselves to a significant degree, and a monthly wash — or even every two months — is sufficient for a jumper in regular rotation worn over a shirt.

How do you remove pilling from Savile Row knitwear?

With a rotary blade fabric shaver — never adhesive tape or scissors, which cut the fibre and accelerate wear. High-quality merino pills less than low-quality because the fibre is longer and more tightly twisted; double-twisted cashmere pills less than single-twist cashmere for the same reason. The areas concerned are always the same: elbows, sides, underarms — the points of regular friction.