Savile Row coats and jackets

Savile Row coats and jackets from Hackett London apply the same construction logic to the outer layer as to the rest of the line: cloths that earn their place with every season, internal finishing at the same level as the external, and a cut calculated for what goes underneath.

Materials and construction

Savile Row coats and jackets work principally with virgin wool cloth — 100% wool in the heavier models, wool-cashmere blends in the premium line — in weights ranging from 500 g/m² in the classic overcoat through to 380 g/m² in the transitional models. The double-faced cloth, in which two layers of fabric are bonded without a visible lining, is the most considered option in the collection: edges are hand-finished, the garment requires no full lining, and the interior and exterior standards are identical. Lined models use a silk-mix or high-density viscose that slides over a blazer without friction or static.

The floating canvas in the chest of the jackets — applied with the same criterion as the suit jackets — allows the cloth to move with the body without losing its structure. Shoulder padding in current references is minimal or absent: the shoulder follows the natural anatomy of the wearer rather than imposing a line of its own.

Models and silhouettes

Savile Row coats and jackets include the double-breasted overcoat, the straight coat with bellows pockets, the field coat in waxed cotton, the double-knit blazer and the wool technical overshirt. The dominant silhouette in the overcoats is straight with a natural shoulder; in the jackets, semi-fitted to allow layering underneath without losing the fall.

How to wear Savile Row coats and jackets

The outer layer defines the reading of the whole composition. Two starting points:

Navy drap overcoat over a grey suit, white shirt and black leather Oxford: a piece that earns its place without trying, from a Chelsea pavement to a formal evening in the City.
Waxed cotton field coat in khaki over a heavy-knit grey pull, dark denim and Chelsea boot: the register drops to urban outdoor — the waxed cloth holds its position without explanation.

Savile Row coats and jackets are cut with calculated ease to accommodate a blazer or a pull underneath: the coat shoulder must sit exactly on the shoulder of the suit jacket, not beyond it. Worth checking at the fitting stage with the layer you'll most regularly be wearing below.

Care

Savile Row coats and jackets in wool are dry clean only. Between cleans, air on a wide-shouldered hanger for at least an hour — wool recovers its shape and releases moisture without intervention. Brush with a natural-bristle cloth brush after each wear. Waxed cotton models clean with a cool damp cloth — never dry cleaning, never the washing machine.

What is the difference between an overcoat and a straight coat in the Savile Row line?

The overcoat is double-breasted, with more sweep at the hem and more cloth throughout: it is the most formal option and the one that best accommodates a structured blazer underneath. The straight coat is single-breasted, with a cleaner silhouette and less volume; it works equally well over a blazer or a pull, with a slightly less formal register. Both share the same cloths and the same construction standard within the Savile Row line.

Can a Savile Row jacket replace a blazer?

Depending on the model. A double-knit blazer or a wool technical overshirt from the line functions well in Smart Casual as a direct alternative to a blazer: it brings structure and volume without the rigidity of a canvassed jacket. In contexts that require a blazer with lapels — formal meetings, weddings, presentations — it does not replace it; but across the majority of working days, it holds that role comfortably.

What weight overcoat from the Savile Row line is most versatile?

Between 380 and 420 g/m² in virgin wool. Heavy enough for British autumn and winter, without being excessive in heated interiors or transitional months. Above 500 g/m², the coat is warm but heavy for daily use; below 350 g/m², it may fall short on a genuinely cold day. If you are buying a single coat from the line, the middle weight is the most rational choice.