the-hack-black-tie

A Man For All Occasions

BLACK TIE: THE RULES

From its origins as an alternative to fussy Victorian formalwear, to embracement by the renegades of the 1920s, modern Black Tie maintains its understated style to show off the gentleman beneath. If the dinner being served is crafted from the finest ingredients, naturally your suit is shaped from the most considered of details: Colour and Cloth.

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The Cut

Elegance is the key to after-dark dressing. Pair a sleekly tailored single-breasted dinner jacket with flat fronted or slim fit trousers for a languid, clean silhouette; all the better to show off discreetly opulent accessories and that perfectly tied bowtie.

The Colour

Midnight Blue is the tradition, black took its nod from Queen Victoria honouring the death of her beloved Albert. Either will serve you well, as contrast is the aim, to show off that V over a crisp white shirt. Impressive under the candlelight.

The Cloth

Get a little closer under the candlelight and you’ll discover classic mohair with silk grosgrain lapels, or modern velvet coupled with black mohair trousers. The finest cloths are milled in Britain, or the stylish climes of Italy. As with everything the modern gentleman embodies, this detail is confidently discreet.

Midnight Midrift

Impeccable taste and a tailored waist, a gentleman is gallant to the core. If you choose a double-breasted jacket, then be sure to keep it fastened. Single breasted jackets encourage the gentleman to unbutton when seated, therefore a tidy waistline is a must. Mirror your Vitruvian V with a waistcoat, or reference the Romantics with a cummerbund - historically used to keep concert tickets close to hand.

The Shirt

Derived from ancient Provençal quilt, Marcella (Marseille) weave is the perfect texture for an evening out. Or for something more linear, a crisp, tight pleat should adorn your bib - a perfect match for your cummerbund. Keep it neat, and always with a turn down collar.

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    The Tie

    Remember those lapels cutting you a fine figure? Match your tie to them, the width should ideally correspond. Wider peaked lapels and double-breasted jackets allow for a butterfly tie. Slimmer shawls call for a batwing or pointed tie. But remember the cardinal rule: It must always be self-tied.

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    The Shoes

    The sound of heels echoing amongst the cloisters, Oxfords are your choice here. Elegant and understated, just be sure to stay away from brogued options. Once again Prince Albert asserts his sartorial influence, as velvet slippers are also acceptable in more familiar settings - dinner with close friends; winter festivities at home.

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    The Braces

    Are there really seven courses to this meal? How does one make room for dessert?…Braces are of course the order of the day, simultaneously comfortable and adept at keeping your silhouette sharp until well after midnight.

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    The Cufflinks

    An eye for detail, this is a subtle and important touch. Silver or white cufflinks finish your shirt with a warm glint. A black pair embraces the night, and emphasises that striking contrast. Keep it simple.

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